Highlights & things to do
- Boudhanath Stupa
- Durbar Square
- Swayambhunath
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Voyagiro › Asia › Kathmandu
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Kathmandu is Nepal's capital and the gateway to the Himalaya. The valley around it holds an extraordinary density of temples, stupas and palace squares, seven groups of which make up the Kathmandu Valley UNESCO World Heritage Site. The city is busy, dusty and sometimes chaotic, but step into a courtyard in the old town and you find carved wooden windows, shrines draped with marigolds and the smell of incense. Most travellers spend a few days here before heading to Pokhara, Chitwan or the trekking trails.
Durbar Squares. The valley once had three rival kingdoms, and each left a royal square: Kathmandu Durbar Square (Basantapur), with the old royal palace and the home of the Kumari, the living goddess; Patan Durbar Square, arguably the finest, with an excellent museum of sacred art; and Bhaktapur Durbar Square, part of a well-preserved medieval town famous for pottery and its tall Nyatapola temple. Some of the buildings damaged in the 2015 earthquake have been restored; others are still being rebuilt.
Swayambhunath, nicknamed the Monkey Temple, sits on a hill west of the city with the Buddha's watchful eyes painted on its stupa and views across the valley.
Boudhanath is one of the largest stupas in the world and the centre of Tibetan Buddhist life in Kathmandu. Join pilgrims walking clockwise around it at dusk, when butter lamps are lit.
Pashupatinath, on the banks of the Bagmati River, is one of the most sacred Hindu temples dedicated to Lord Shiva. Entry to the main temple is restricted to Hindus, but visitors can watch the riverside ghats respectfully from across the water, where cremations take place.
Thamel is the backpacker district, packed with trekking shops, bookshops, bars and guesthouses. Garden of Dreams, a restored neo-classical garden on its edge, is a peaceful escape.
For mountain views, many visitors take an early-morning Everest mountain flight or drive to Nagarkot or Dhulikhel on the valley rim for sunrise over the Himalaya.
Dal bhat (lentils, rice, vegetables and pickle) is the everyday meal, usually with refills. Momos, steamed or fried dumplings, are everywhere. The Newar community of the valley has its own cuisine: try bara (lentil patties), chatamari (a rice-flour crepe) and yomari sweets. Tibetan thukpa noodle soup is warming in winter. Thamel has international restaurants and bakeries catering to trekkers. Drink bottled or filtered water.
Tribhuvan International Airport (KTM) is Nepal's main international gateway, with flights from South Asia, the Gulf and East Asia. A newer airport at Bhairahawa and another at Pokhara also handle some international flights. Overland, several border crossings link Nepal with India.
Taxis are available from the airport; agree a fare first or use a ride-hailing app such as Pathao or InDrive, which operate in Kathmandu. Local buses and microbuses are cheap but crowded. Walking is the best way to explore the old squares, though traffic and pavements can be challenging. Domestic flights connect Kathmandu with Pokhara and Lukla; mountain flights are weather-dependent, so build in buffer days.
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